Russian Tortoise

Proper Husbandry:

Russian Tortoises originate in Central Asia and thrive in arid or semi-arid climates. They are diurnal (active during the day) and require UVB and heat regulation.  

Below we will cover proper enclosures, temperature and humidity, lighting, feeding + nutritional requirements, reproductive complications (regardless of breeding), temperament, and common health problems.

Enclosure 

These amazing reptiles are terrestrial, which means that they prefer long enclosures with rocks and other short decorations to climb and hide under. 

- Please ensure that all decorations in the enclosure can support their full weight, as they will attempt to climb on things occasionally, and falling can cause injury. Also ensure that no decorations are so heavy they could become squished under them. 

- They prefer to have several basking zones located in different portions of their cage. They need to be able to freely move throughout the enclosure, so not all decorations need to be in the same location. They will need two size appropriate shelters in each enclosure as well, one on the hot side and one on the cool side. 

- They can thrive in either bioactive or artificial environments. If live plants are placed in the enclosure, they will likely take bites out of them from time to time, so ensure that the types of plants used are non toxic. Refrain from using plants that have been treated with fertilizer and/or pesticides as these can also be harmful. We recommend changing (usually during cleaning) decorations and plants every few weeks to maintain intellectual stimulation.

-Most frequently, owners choose to keep these guys in a tortoise table during their time indoors (and when they are very young). They are specifically designed for tortoises and can be raised with the use of table legs, or placed directly on the ground. The recommended size for an indoor enclosure is 4x8 feet. 

-As they get older, it is recommended to house their tortoises outdoors at least part of the time (depending on the climate of the area). The recommended size for an outdoor enclosure is a minimum of 4x8 feet, however they will thrive in a larger area.

-Please keep them out of the direct line of an ac/heating vent when indoors that can rapidly change the temperature of their ambient air. 

Substrate: 

-Russian Tortoises can thrive on many different types of substrate. They are often kept on a changeable felt/reptile-carpet bottom, which allows for simple and easy cleanup. While it is often recommended, and much better than several alternatives, felt/carpet can harbor bacteria and lead to various infections if not disinfected properly on a regular basis. 

They thrive on a variety of different substrates. The most often used are: timothy hay, cypress mulch, coco coir, orchid bark. They really enjoy digging, so they will need a “dig box”, or a box of reptile safe topsoil that is large enough for them to freely dig in. 

In outdoor enclosures, please check the substrate for the presence of ants every couple of days. Ant bites pose a serious health risk to tortoises, and they can succumb to bites, especially when they are little. 

Temperatures and humidity:

Russian Tortoises thrive in arid climates, as they are native to southwestern Asia. They enjoy heat and low humidity, however, like all reptiles need a cool space to escape to in order to regulate temperature. It is also best that we follow their natural seasonal environmental fluctuations. 

Humidity should be maintained around 45-50%. This can be easily measured by using a hygrometer placed in the middle of the enclosure. To achieve humidity in dry climates, you can lightly mist the enclosure with water 1-2 times per day. 

Temperature: 

- All reptiles need access to a warm side and a cool side of the enclosure, as they are unable to thermoregulate (regulate their own temperature through bodily function). They thrive in day temperatures of 70-80°F with a basking spot of 95°F. Night temperatures can be maintained around 70°F. 

- We recommend using either a ceramic heat emitter or a heat bulb to maintain temperatures. Utilizing two thermostats (one for the warm side and one for the cool side) will ensure the heat is controlled and not too hot for your pet. The larger the enclosure, the larger the necessary bulb wattage.  These heating sources need to be outside of the enclosure, so the Russian Tortoises cannot attempt to crawl too close to them and accidentally burn themselves.

DO NOT. WE REPEAT. DO NOT USE AN ELECTRICALLY HEATED ROCK IN THE ENCLOSURE. They will lead to severe burns. 

Diet:

Russian Tortoises consume a wide variety of food in the wild, therefore they need a variety of food in captivity. They are grazers, and will eat over long periods of time. Feeding a variant diet will help ensure that they will receive all the nutrients they need. 

-A staple diet of leafy greens like escarole, green leaf lettuce, red leaf lettuce, endive, romaine lettuce, turnip greens, chicory, and mustard greens as well as grasses like timothy, orchard, meadow. Dandelion greens tend to be a particular favorite of most tortoises.

- Remember that some vegetation is toxic. For information on toxic vegetation please refer to Russian Tortoise's safe plant list. Keep in mind that safe plants can easily be made unsafe with the use of fertilizers and pesticides, which can live in the soil for quite some time. 

Lighting: 

In addition to a heating source, Russian Tortoises need special lighting to help maintain vitamin D3 levels (especially if they are mostly indoors). They will need a specialized reptile artificial UVB bulb over their cage that stays on for 10-12 hours each day. 

Proper heating setup for a Russian Tortoise.

Temperament:

Russian tortoises, once they reach sexual maturity, are “loners” and prefer to be housed alone without a view of other reptiles. Placing two cages next to one another without a visual barrier between them will leave room for aggression and aggression-caused-injuries. 

We would not recommend housing other types of reptiles or amphibians with them, as they will likely cause harm to those critters, or attempt to fight and can injure themselves. 

Just like other reptiles, it will take some time for them to become comfortable with handling. We recommend handling in short intervals until they get used to you. They can scratch and bite 

Due to their aggressive nature, please take great caution when introducing males and females for breeding purposes. When breeding, it is best to introduce the male into the female’s enclosure. This will help prevent possible injury and aggression due to a male's territorial tendencies.

Reproduction: 

Regardless of your intent to breed, there are things you should know about their sex-specific organs and the problems that can occur with them. 

Females: 

• Female Russian tortoises will lay eggs every 2-6 days in May or June. Regardless of breeding status. Eggs laid without breeding are “infertile”. If sperm have been introduced to them, they are “fertile”.

• A group of eggs laid at once is called a “clutch”. She will gain weight right before laying her clutch. 

• She also may abandon food for a few days prior to laying. 

• They will need a moist, soft area within their enclosure often referred to as a “laying bin”. A large container (big enough for the tortoise to fit in with wiggle room) can be filled with soft sandy soil. 

• Without having a place to lay them, they can refuse to lay their eggs and this can cause serious medical issues. 

• They can also become “egg bound” which refers to the inability to lay eggs, which is a medical emergency. 

• She can also store sperm from a previous mating and use it to fertilize several clutches of eggs. 

• Females are more prone to prolapsed cloaca ( the hole by which they breed and urinate and poop), which is a medical emergency. A prolapse is when the part of the cloaca that should not be seen and is on the inside, pops out. 

Males:

• Male Russian tortoises have pores on the inside of their thighs, called femoral pores, which secrete pheromones. The purpose of the pheromones is to mark their territory and attract mates. These pores can become clogged, resulting in discomfort and occasionally infection. The pores naturally will appear to have a plug, and that does not necessarily mean that they are clogged. If the pores are clogged or “impacted”, you will notice a fluid-like secretion from around the plug. The area will be red and swollen as well. If you suspect pore impaction, you should seek veterinary care, as antibiotics and professional removal of the plug. 

• Males can have prolapsed hemipenes, which is when their reproductive organs become stuck on the outside of the body. Their hemipenes are just inside of the cloaca.

Common medical issues: 

The most common medical issue that Russian tortoises can have is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), which can be fatal. This is typically the result of a calcium and vitamin D3 deficient reptile. If proper lighting and food supplementation are not maintained, MBD is almost guaranteed to happen. Signs of MBD include: lethargy, difficulty standing or walking and controlling limbs, swollen joints (mainly in legs), muscle twitches, flexible bones, fragile bones, and curvature of the spine. Leg movements will also be erratic and abnormal.These tortoises with this disease should be removed from enclosures with decorations and placed in an enclosure where they cannot fall and injure themselves further. With proper treatment, metabolic bone disease can be slowly reversed, but most of the time a treated reptile will still have some physical abnormalities. 

Eye issues are the second most common issue to occur in Russian tortoises. Common eye problems include general injury and infection. Any eye problems should be seen by a veterinarian immediately. 

For females, egg retention or becoming “egg bound” is a main concern. Typically this is due to calcium/vitamin D3 deficiency, but can occur from other health issues as well. Unfortunately, there really are no home remedies and she will need to visit a veterinarian. 

Respiratory infections are common in Russian tortoises and often result from inadequate humidity levels in their enclosure. Often pet stores tell owners to provide excessive humidity, which can be catastrophic for this desert breed. If your gecko is showing signs of a respiratory infection, such as discharge from the nose or eyes or rapid/labored breathing, seek veterinary attention immediately. 

Stomatitis, also known as mouth-rot, or inflammation of the mouth, is also common for these reptiles. Typically stomatitis is due to injury, nutritional deficiencies, or environmental issues. It can easily lead to infection and should always be treated by a veterinarian. 

Aside from a female about to lay a clutch of eggs, Russian tortoises should see a veterinarian if they gain or lose weight rapidly, have sunken/hollow eyes, difficulty breathing, diarrhea or other gastrointestinal issues, injuries, seem very lethargic, or have any other concerning symptoms. 

Stuck shed occurs when a reptile is unable to free themselves of their shed skin. It is often a sign of dehydration, and any shedding reptile should have access to a humid hide. If the shed becomes stuck and is not loosened and removed carefully, infections and scale rot can occur. 

Scale rot is a broad term that refers to any type of dermatitis on a reptile, which can be caused by an infection, burn, inflammation, and more. It is often caused by poor husbandry (incorrect environment for the specific reptile) and/or unsanitary living.